In my opinion that defeats the purpose, but to each is own I guess. However, at this point I don't think you would be buying a film camera to use it on auto. The automated features seem to work fairly well on all models of this camera. Cameras like the F1 have a locking mechanism to keep this from happening. This wasn't too common of a problem, but I am clumsy with this sort of thing. One problem that I found later on was that the rewind knob that opens the back can get caught on a camera strap and open. There is also a connection at the bottom for an auto winder. Combining this camera with a 50mm 1.8 (the standard lens for this camera) make it fairly versatile in a variety of situations.Īside from the features listed above there is a meter button, a depth of field preview switch, and a flash sync port. It is easier to compose when you have nothing else to worry about. Some of my favorite film images were made with this camera for that reason. The viewfinder itself is plenty bright allowing for easy viewing.īy eliminating any unnecessary features they have created a simple shooting process that allows you to focus on the image you are making. It is only split horizontally but the camera can be turned sideways to focus on a horizontal line easily. The split prism focus point allows for simple focussing that is generally pretty accurate. This is how I ended up really understanding the relationship between f-stops and lighting. A very easy way to see visually how the light and settings are effecting your image. As the lighting changes or you change your shutter speed, the needle points to what aperture would give you average exposure. Inside the viewfinder is a simple scale showing only the aperture numbers and a needle. There is no exposure compensation, no metering mode adjustment, and only a single split prism focus point. All you do is set your settings, wind, and shoot. If you shoot the camera the way I do, fully manual, I think you will be delightfully surprised how simple and fun it is to shoot. It can be replaced but can be a bit of a challenge, and some special tools are necessary. Another thing to be aware of when making a purchase. The first time I tried this camera I thought it was broken because it would't fire, a quick battery change resolved it. The door to the battery is known for breaking. It uses a little 6V battery that goes in the front of the camera. One caveat to this camera is that it will not fire without a battery. For this to work, as well as the meter, the ISO/ASA dial has to be set properly which is easily done by lifting gently on the dial and turning it to the appropriate speed. ![]() On the aperture dial of the FD mount lenses, there is an "A" setting that allows for its automation. ![]() Pretty standard stuff for a camera at the time. In the standard version of the AE-1 (non-program), the shutter speed goes from Bulb to 2 seconds all the way up to 1/1000th of a second. So I wouldn't recommend dropping it, and I would look over any camera you are looking to buy very carefully. The outside of the camera is painted plastic, some in silver and others in black. There are a few versions of this camera including a Program version, some with metal internal parts, and others with plastic, but they all share the same overall design. On its own, it is a very simple 35mm camera that is easy to use and produces good results. It has automated features and a variety of compatible accessories. The AE-1 was one of the most produced 35mm cameras in history. I primarily use my F1 at the moment but I thought it would be a good idea to share my thoughts on the legendary AE-1. Canon's AE-1 is the first film camera I used consistently.
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